Cambodia

We made the decision to visit Cambodia during our time in Bali when we found out about a possibility of doing a side-trip from Bangkok to Siem Reap to visit the famous Angkor temples. Instead of a road trip on the bus from Bangkok along the infamous road via Poipet to Siem Reap we decided to invest in a Bangkok Airways pass, which also allowed us to fly afterwards from Bangkok to Koh Samui. This has saved us all the hassle of traveling on the “scum bus”, paying for taxis and dodgy guesthouses and allowed us to avoid the infamous dirt road journey. Needless to say we were glad about that.
Cambodia is a country of extremes. On one side there is an abundance of expensive up-market hotels and resorts around Siem Reap catering for al needs of demanding western visitors. On the other hand the rest of the country is still trying to raise from the dark period of the Khmer Rouge regime, corruption is a way of life, land mine victims are on every corner of the street, healthcare is extremely sub-standard, life expectancy is 57 years and poverty is visible everywhere.
Siem Reap is actually quite a pleasant touristy town with many inexpensive good restaurants serving traditional Khmer food – Amok fish was our favorite, internet access and many good bars. Above all it is the base to explore the ancient temples of Angkor, the capital of the Khmer empire. That’s what the tourists come for.
The largest temple, Angkor Wat is the biggest religious building in the world and there are hundreds of temples that have survived to the present day. It’s easy to spend as long as a week visiting the temples, but we only had 3 days, so we decided to concentrate on the key ones and due to the distance between the temples we rented a tuk-tuk with a driver to show us around. The driver, Pilo, was very helpful and friendly, but unfortunately his English was limited.


On the first day we did the small circuit, covering the most important temples. On the second day we followed the big circuit, getting to some of the more remote places, including Banteai Srei. On our final day we took a side trip to see the Rolous group of temples and stopped at a local handicraft center and the land mines museum.


Below you can see some of our favorite temples:

Angkor Wat – the mother of all temples and the largest religious building in the world, measuring 1.3km by 1.5km. It was built in the 11th century to honor the Hindu god Vishnu. Located at the center of the temple and rising to 55 meters tower represents Mount Meru, the Hindu house of gods.




Bayon – the strangest of the Angkor temples, located in the center of the Angkor Thom city. Built at the beginning of the 12th century by the Angkor greatest king, Jayavarman VII. The most striking features are the unique 54 gothic towers decorated with 216 coldly smiling faces of Avalokiteshvara.




Ta Prohm – the most atmospheric ruin of Angkor, the temple is swallowed by the jungle and has been largely left as it was originally discovered by the European explorers. This is the location of the original Tomb Raider movie.




Banteay Srei – a jewel in the crown of the Angkorian art. One of the smallest temples, but beautifully preserved with many detailed three-dimensional carvings. The temple was built in the 10th century and is dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva and includes some of the finest stone carvings in the world.




After seeing the ancient architecture in Athens and Rome there are few other archeological sites that can really impress us but Angkor definitely turned out to be absolutely stunning. One could easily spend a week exploring the temples and still not be able to see all of them in detail. No picture can truly represent the magnitude of any of the temples. Unfortunately our time was limited and we’ve been able to see the main temples, but little else of Cambodia. It seems like a fascinating country and we hope we will have a chance to return in future.

Angkor - Cambodia (Polski)

Cambodia to 14mln mieszkancow, srednia dlugosc zycia to 57, 30% analfabetyzm. Riel jest oficialna waluta ale nikt jej tu nie uzywa – wszystkie ceny sa w USD (1USD = 4,000 riel) ale uzywaja tylko USD banknoty czyli jak trzeba placic $1.50 i sie da $2 to reszta jest 2,000 riel.

Troche nieplanowany przyjazd ale po namowach Sieniawy (Mariuszka kolega z Bali) nie moglismy sie oprzec i nie zajechac zobaczyc Angkor ruin – najwieksze ruiny w Azji z IX do XV wieku. Baza do zwiedzania jest Siem Reap – 400km od Bangkoku, 50min samolotem a z przejazdem naziemnym to jak sie trafi (nasluchalismy sie tyle negatywnych historii wiec polecielismy samolotem).

Po przlocie do Siem Reap jadac do naszego hotelu patrzelismy zdumieni i sie zastanawialismy gdziesmy to wyladowali – oczekiwalismy zobaczyc biedny kraj a widzimy mnostwo wystawnych hoteli i restauracji i cale stada turystow tzw. turystyczna pulapka. Nastepnego dnia zrozumielismy czemu tu tyle turystow – ruiny robia wrazenia, sa wielkie wiec nie odczuwa sie tych tlumow tak jak w miescie.
Najlepsza forma zwiedzania jest tuk-tukiem – wynajem kosztuje $12 na dzien. My przez 3 dni jezdzilismy z tym samym kierowca tuk-tuka Pilo, byl bardzo mily, mowil troche po angielsku i byl bardzo usluzny (jak nas tylko wypatrzyl w tlumie to zaraz podjezdzal) ale dziwne to bylo dla nas uczucie miec kogos do uslugiwania – stwierdzilismy, ze podrozujac publicznym transportem znacznie lepiej sie czujemy.

Swiatynie Angkor (Ang = krol, kor=miasto) to stolica starozytnej Khmer imperium (obecnie Kambodza), jedno z najpotezniejszych azjatyckich mocarstw przez prawie 600 lat (802 do 1492). Do XII wieku Hinduizm byl panujaca religia, potem przyjeto Buddyzm. Do dzis przetrwaly tylko swiatynie gdyz swieckie budowle byly budowane z drewna (budowle ceglane, kamienne byly zarezerwowane tylko dla bogow). Angor dla Kambodzian, starajacych sie otrzasnac z wojny domowej i wojny z Vietnamem, to zrodlo dumy narodowej i sa wszedzie: na piwie, papierosach, nazwach hoteli/restauracji, reklamach.

Zwiedzanie ruin zajelo nam 3 dni (po 8-9 godz dziennie). Ponizej zalaczamy krotki opis swiatyn, ktore wywarly na nas najwieksze wrazenie:

Bayon – swiatynia stojace w samym centrum Agkor Thom (opis ponizej) i nasz faworyt. 54 wieze udekorowane 216 zimno usmiechnietymi twarzami (4 twarze na wieze: pln, pld, wsch, zach). Symbolizm i dokladna funkcja tej swiatyni jest nie znana – niektorzy naukowcy twierdza, ze w tym okresie Kambodja miala 54 prowincje i kazda wieza symbolizuje nadzor nad prowincja. Z daleka Bayon nie jest az tak imponujacy jak Angkor Wat (przypomina troche gure gruzu) ale jak sie wejdzie na gore to naprawde jest dech zapierajacy – te wszystkie twarze patrzace sie na nas. Bayon ma 3 poziomy: 1 pozion = duzy kwadrat zdobiony scenami religijnymi, 2 pozion = mniejszy kwadrat zdobiony scenami religijnymi, 3 pozion = okragly gdzie znajduja sie wszystkie wieze.



Angkor Thom (wspaniale miasto) – 3km x 3km otoczone 100m fosa, wktorej mieszkaly kiedys krokodyle; wejscie przez wspaniala poludniowa brame (4 twarze zwrocone kazda w inna strone, balustrada mostu z lewej to linia 54 bogow, z prawej 54 demonow.


Angkor Wat – (XII wiek – krolewskie miasto), dech zapierajaca najwieksza (mury zewnetrzne: 1025m x 800km) budowla, najlepiej zachowana. Skierowana ku zachodowi (kierunek smierci w hinduizmie) a kierunek zwiedzania jest przeciwny do ruchu wskazowek zegara (zgodne z rytuaem pogrzebowym w hinduizmie) dlatego uwaza sie ze byla to swiatynia i mausoleum. W centrum swiatyni jest 55m wieza, majaca reprezentowac gore Meru (dom bogow w hinduizmie) – wejscie jest strome (schody sa bardzo wysokie i niesamowicie waskie, brak balustrad) ale dojscie do krolewstwa bogow nie jest latwe. Sciany sa bogato zdobione scenami z hindu i historii.





Ta Prohm (XII wiek – klasztor krolewski) – swiatynia z najwieksza atmosfera. W przeciwienstwie do innych swiatyn Ta Prohm bylo pochloniete przez jungle i do tej pory wyglada pododnie jak w czasach gdy podroznicy po raz pierwszy ja odkryli (jungla zostala przezedzona, zastaly tylko najwieksze drzewa). Swiatynia sklada sie z wiez i waskich korytarzy (wiele nieprzechodnych teraz gdyz zawalone sa gruzami). Stuletnie drzewa porastaja ruiny – konary tworza parasol przepuszczajacy tylko czesciowo slonce a korzenie przeplataja sie z ruinami. Tych co lubia holiwodzkie filmy - Tom Rider byl krecony tutaj.




Banteay Srei (X albo XII wiek - cytadela kobiet) – zwany klejnotem angkorianskiej sztuki. Swiatynia hinduska poswiecona Shivie. Jest to jedna z najmniejszych swiatyn i jedyna nie krolewska swiatynia – nalezala do doradcy i nauczyciela krola. Zdobienia sa przepiekne i pokrywaja kazdy kawalek murow – kobiety z kwiatem lotusu w reku i tradycyjna zakladana spodnica, sceny z hindu. Odkryta przez francuza w 1911 roku (otoczona byla gesta jungla). W 1923 Andre Malraux usilowal ukrasc najcenniejsze statuly ze swiatyni ale zostal zlapany, potem zostal ministrem kultury Francji. Banteay Srei powstanie nie jest dokladnie znane; na X wiek wskazuja napisy na bramach ale inni twierdza, ze technika zdobien sa zbyt profesionalne na X wiek i sadza, ze powstala ona w XII wielu na ruinach inej Xwiecznej swiatynia (stad te napisy).




Zwiedzac Angor swiatynie mozna by bylo jeszcze pare dni. My posiadamy tylko limitowana wiedze o hinduizmie i buddyzmie wiec wiele zdobien na scianach nie bylo dla nas zrozumialych. Staralismy sie doksztalcic uzywajac przewodnikow ale nasze mozgi mialy klopoty z przetrawieniem takiej masy informacji w tak krotkim czasie.

Nawet nie majac podstaw historycznych, swiatynie robia niesamowite wrazenie i rzeklabym, ze wieksze niz ruiny w Rzymie i Atenach. Niestety zysk jest wazniejszy od konserwacji. Wejscie jest stosunkowo drogie (1 dzien = 20USD, 3 dni = 40 USD, 7dni = 60USD) i turystow mnostwo ale tylko 10% ze sprzedazy biletow idzie na konserwacje pozostale 15% do firmy paliwowej sprawujacej nadzor administracyjny a pozostale 75% dla ministerswa finansow, ktore nie sponsoruje zadnych renowacji.

Rybny Amok (podobny do zupy curry) to lokalna potrawa tutaj serwowana w lisciach od banana – tak nam smakowala, ze codziennie ja jedlismy na lunch i obiad.

Bylismy tylko 4 dni i to w miejcu bardzo turystycznym wiec nie mielismy okazji dobrze poznac lokalnych ludzi i obyczajow
*** Widok szpitali jest przerazajacy – jadac na wschod slonca o 5 rano pod szpitalem dzieciecym byla juz spora kolejka, gdyz przyjmowana jest tylko limitowana liczba kto pierwszy ten lepszy. Poziom obslugi medycznej jest tak niski ze nawet w przewodnikach turystycznych polecaja jechac do szpitala/lekarza w Bangkoku w razie potrzeby.
*** Mnostwo dzieci zebracych szczegolnie pod ruinami swiatyn starajace sie sprzedac pocztowki/hustki ... bieda tu taka a kraj nie zapewnia zadnej opieki socjalnej wiec rodzice wysylaja dzieci pod swiatynie zarabiac na przezycie zamiast do szkoly (dzieciom trudniej sie oprzec)
*** Z tego co widzielismy, wiekszosc domow poza miastem nie ma pradu ani gazu ani wody biezacej – korzystaja zazwyczaj ze studni a piora w rzece lub jeziorze
*** Kambodza jest na 4 miejscu na swiecie pod wzgledem ofiar od min – widac to na kazdym kroku; czesto spotyka sie osoby bez nog albo rak
*** Stacje benzynowe:

Wyjezdzamy z Kambodzy z bardzo mieszanymi uczuciami ale mamy nadzieje, ze moze jeszcze kiedys tu wrocimy i bedziemy mieli okazje poznac ten kraj z innej strony. Angkor wywarly na nas wielkie wrazenie i jest nalezy do jednych z najbardziej imponujacym miejsc jakie widzielismy podczas naszej podrozy. Niestety zdjecia nie oddaja dostojestwa, wielkosci i piekna ruin Angkor.

Laos

After waking up early we headed to the Chiang Mai bus station to catch a morning VIP bus to the Laos border crossing in Chaing Kong on the Mekong river. Upon arriving at the bus station we were told that there are no more tickets for the direct bus and were advised to take a VIP bus to Chaing Rai and then change for another bus to the boarder. The bus to Chaing Rai was actually very good and comfortable, but upon arrival it turned out that the bus to Chaing Kong is a local bus – i.e. over crowded, designed for short Asian people so no space for our European legs and generally a little bit more adventurous than we expected.

Luckily the journey was only 2 hours and we arrived alive in Chang Kong and after a short tuk-tuk (although it was probably the slowest tuk-tuk in town – I bet I could have run quicker) ride we arrived at the boarder crossing on hour before closing time (the boarder crossing only stays open till 5pm). Having paid exit fees, overtime fees (for the boarder officials for letting us cross on Saturday, being a non-standard working day) we hopped onto the boat for the Mekong River crossing.

The village on the Loa side of the boarder is called Huay Xai and finally after another ½ hour at immigration (evidently Loa people are never in a hurry, despite us paying another overtime fee) we were in Laos.
From the first look the difference between relatively richer Thailand and poorer Laos vas visible. It is as though the time has stopped in Laos about 60 years ago with very few paved roads, lack of electricity in many places and people mostly living in wooden or bamboo houses with no running water.
Nevertheless we found some decent cheap accommodation and I’ve even managed to go for a run in the evening. Evidently the locals are not very used to tourists running around in lycra shorts and singlets as I had many cheers from both old and young people along the way. The next morning we boarded a slow boat for a two day journey on the Mekong river to Luang Prabang.

The boat was actually fairly comfortable and we were glad that we haven’t opted for the uncomfortable speed boat taking one day only. We were able to take in the Mekong sites at a slow pace and had an overnight stop at the Pak Beng village. Pak Beng is considered just a necessary overnight stop in the middle of nowhere by most people, but we actually quite enjoyed the quiet village, had nice accommodation and dinner and I’ve even managed another run, again raising many eyebrows of the locals.

Finally after 2 days on the boat we arrived late in the evening in Luang Parabang located in central Laos on the shores of the Mekong river. Luang Prabang is a World Heritage listed town and a former royal capital of Laos with 32 temples. Due to the World Heritage funding the city retained it’s original typical Asian feel, mixed with the French colonial architecture.
Luang Prabang Royal Palace

Wat Xieng Thong – Luang Prabangs most magnificent temple


Wat Pa Huak – the oldest temple in Luang Prabing, currently abandoned

Lao traditional dancing

From Luang Prabang we took a VIP bus to the town of Vang Vieng. Vang Vieng is a bit of a backpackers Mecca with guesthouses on every corner and bars serving Western fair (mostly burgers, fish & chips and pizza) and each blasting various episodes of Friends on the TV throughout their opening hours. The favorite pastime of all backpckers appears to be tubing down the Nam Song river in an inflated tractor tire.
I’m not quite sure why the town is so popular with the backpackers, but we certainly found the scene a little bit distasteful (tacky, as Alex calls it!) and bought a bus ticket for the next day.

Relaxation at a Rasta bar on the river – Vang Vieng style!
Before leaving for Vientiane in the morning we’ve managed to visit the Tham Jang caves.


The “VIP” bus to Vientiane turned out to be an old min-van so we’ve arrived covered with sweat and a little bit worse for wear, so apart from a run on the local athletic track (which was great and free!) we had dinner and an early night.
The next day we started with a renewed enthusiasm and within the first few hours managed to take in most of the major sights:

The spectacular Pha That Luang stupa, which appears on the national seal

Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan

The That Dam (the Black Stupa)

The Patuxai Arch

And the President's Palace

On our last day before heading back to Bangkok on an overnight bus we took a local bus to the famous Buddha Park



Our short trip to Laos came to an end and it was time to get back to Thailand. Laos has to be one of our favorite destinations. The Loa people are generally very friendly, despite their poverty. Seeing young girls or boys waking up at 6 in the morning to open the shop or a restaurant (which is where they live as well) to earn maybe a dollar or two before happily going to school on a bicycle to return in the evening to work again till close really makes you appreciate how convenient lifestyle we have in Western Europe, yet we still complain a lot…